Helpful Articles

A search for a quality Golden The junior handler explained that early Beyond Behavioral Changes spay and neuter surgeries may con- tribute to cruciate ligament and other orthopedic injuries.

Her mother, Terri Hartung, D.V.M., DABVP, who practices at the Redmond- Fall City Animal Hospital in Redmond, Wash., says, “I remember when people allowed a bitch to have one heat before spaying her. Then, people began neu- tering young puppies, and now most people seem to have settled on the age of 6 months for neutering or spaying. A balance needs to be established about what is best for an individual dog.”

Historically, the rationale for neuter- ing or spaying dogs seems evident: no unwanted litters, no indiscriminate breeding by ill-informed owners, no bitches coming into season, and reduced aggression and roaming ten- dencies in males. However, recent find- ings give breeders reasons to think twice about the age recommendations they give puppy buyers for spaying and neutering pets.

Among the concerns associated with spaying or neutering prior to sexual maturity are increased risks of hip dys- plasia and torn cruciate ligaments, pos- sibly decreased life span, some evidence for increased incidence of hypothyroidism, hemangiosarcoma and osteosarcoma. On the flip side is con- cern that intact bitches are at risk for mammary cancer. (See Health Consid- erations of Early Spay and Neuter Sur- geries on page 2.)

 Retriever to handle in junior showmanship led Liz Bultman to breeder Rhonda Hovan. As they

got acquainted by e-mails, Hovan

was impressed that Bultman wanted to be sure that Hovan would not require her to neuter or spay the dog at an early age.

The possible health effects of early spaying and neutering is a topic Hovan, the research facilitator for the Golden Retriever Club of America, holds close to her heart. “For years when I looked at adult dogs that I’d bred, I saw marked physical differences between those sold as show prospects and those sold as pets,” says Hovan, of Akron, Ohio, who has bred Golden Retrievers under the Faera prefix for more than 40 years. “The dogs sold as pets were tall and lanky, with no bone and pointy muzzles. I’d look at them and wonder how they got so tall.”

Hovan began to realize a key differ- ence was that the Goldens intended as show prospects were kept intact. Those sold to families as companion animals, or pets, were routinely neutered. Hovan, like most breeders, requires pet owners to spay and neuter dogs. She began noticing that the age at which dogs were spayed or neutered played a role in the way they looked as adults.

Following the guidance of her mother, a board-certified canine and feline practitioner with a large number of Golden Retriever clients, Bultman presented her concerns to Hovan.

The health effects of neutering

nd spaying on Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers has been the focus of a recent study. Comparing data on disease incidence and a dog’s repro- ductive status, the researchers have documented correlations that go beyond behavioral changes. The data analysis continues, with publication

in a peer-reviewed journal expected

in 2012.

Lead investigator Benjamin Hart, D.V.M., Ph.D., DACVB, distinguished professor emeritus in the Department of Anatomy, Physiology and Cell Biology at the University of California-Davis School of Veterinary Medicine, says, “The time had come to examine the biological and disease-related issues associated with neutering. There is much misconception related to the impact neutering has on an animal

and whether the age of neutering makes a difference.”

The study, which was funded by the AKC Canine Health Foundation, tapped into disease epidemiology data from the national parent breed clubs and the Foundation. The veterinary database at the University of California-Davis Veteri- nary Teaching Hospital provided infor- mation about diagnoses and tests performed on 789 Golden Retrievers and 2,018 Labrador Retrievers.

“We knew that we needed the research to be breed-specific, rather than generalizing across breeds,” Hart says. “We chose Golden and Labrador

Early Neutering and Spaying , continued from page ?

 retrievers because they are popular breeds that would give us the large population numbers needed to gener- ate data for a solid analysis.”

One resourceful tool was published results from a national health survey conducted in 1998 by the Golden Retriever Foundation and the Golden

Retriever Club of America. The compre- hensive questionnaire gathered infor- mation from club members via mailed surveys, with the results posted on the parent club website (www.grca.org). The database included information about 1,444 Golden Retrievers from 746 respondents.

A clinical animal behaviorist, Hart has devoted his career to studying the behavioral effects of castration on dogs, cats and horses. “Behavioral issues, particularly in males, are often cited as a reason to neuter early,” he says.

“As far as we know, in all the animals we examined scientifically, the age of

 Health Considerations of Early Spay and Neuter Surgeries

 Health Risk

Finding

Source(s)

Hip Dysplasia & Torn Cruciate Ligaments

Sex hormones are needed to achieve peak bone density. Neu- tering before puberty produces taller dogs by delaying the clos- ing of the growth plates and allowing the dog to continue to grow past puberty. Body proportions and the relative length and weight of various bones are altered, which can lead to increased incidence of hip dysplasia and torn cruciate ligaments.

Slauterbeck JR, Pankratz K, Xu TK, Bozeman SC, Hardy DM. Clin Orthop Relat Res. 2004;429:301-305.; Zink C. Early Spay-Neuter Considerations for the Canine Athlete: One Veterinarian’s Opinion. 2005.www.caninesports. com/SpayNeuter.html; Gilsanz V, Roe TF, Gibbens DT, Schulz EE, Carson ME, Gonzalez O, Boechat MI. Am J Physiol. 1998;255:E416-E21.; http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih. gov/pubmed/18052804

Decreased Life Span

Neutering before puberty produces taller dogs, and increased height corresponds with shorter life spans in Golden Retrievers. The shortest male Golden Retrievers live 2.2 years longer than the tallest males; the shortest bitches live 1.1 years longer than the tallest bitches.

Waters DJ, Kengeri SS, Clever B, Booth JA, Maras AH, Schlittler DL, Hayek MG. Aging Cell. 2009;8(6):752-755.; Golden Retriever Club of America National Health Survey, 1998-1999.

Hypothyroidism

Golden Retriever males neutered before 1 year of age have an 80 percent greater risk of hypothyroidism. The risk is 60 percent for Golden bitches spayed before 1 year of age.

Zink C. Early Spay-Neuter Considerations for the Canine Athlete: One Veterinarian’s Opinion. 2005.www.canines- ports.com/SpayNeuter.html.; Panciera DL. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 1994;204:761-767.; Golden Retriever Club of America National Health Survey, 1998-1999.

Hemangiosarcoma

A retrospective study showed neutered dogs and spayed bitches have a two to five times greater risk of cardiac hemangiosar- coma. Hemangiosarcoma is the cause of death for one in five Golden Retrievers.

Zink C. Early Spay-Neuter Considerations for the Canine Athlete: One Veterinarian’s Opinion. 2005.www.canines- ports.com/SpayNeuter.html; Ware WA, Hopper DC. J Vet Intern Med. 1999;13(2):95-103.; Golden Retriever Club of America National Health Survey, 1998-1999.

Osteosarcoma

Osteosarcoma affects 5 percent of Golden Retrievers, and sev- eral studies have shown the cancer to be significantly more com- mon in neutered and spayed dogs.

Zink C. Early Spay-Neuter Considerations for the Canine Athlete: One Veterinarian’s Opinion. 2005.www.canines- ports.com/SpayNeuter.html; Cooley DM, Beranek BC, Schlittler DL, Glickman NW, Glickman LT, Waters D. Can- cer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev. 2002; +1 616 217 1616:1,434-1,440.; Golden Retriever Club of America National Health Survey, 1998-1999.

Urinary Incontinence

Results of studies not consistent, but early spaying seems to increase the occurrence of urinary incontinence in bitches. Early neutering also may correlate with increased urethral sphincter incontinence in males.

Zink C. Early Spay-Neuter Considerations for the Canine Athlete: One Veterinarian’s Opinion. 2005.www.canines- ports.com/SpayNeuter.html; Stocklin-Gautschi NM, Hassig M, Reichler IM, Hubler M, Arnold S. J Reprod Fertil. Suppl. 2001;57:233-236.; Aaron A, Eggleton K, Power C, Holt PE. Vet Rec. 1996;139:542-546.

Mammary Cancer

For bitches not spayed before the second heat cycle, the risk of mammary cancer increases to 13 percent. If allowed to have one heat cycle, the risk is 4 percent, and if spayed before the first heat cycle, the risk decreases to less than 0.5 percent.

Schneider R, Taylor CR, Taylor D. J Natl Cancer Inst. 1969;43:1,249-4,261.

Early Neutering and Spaying , continued from page ?

 neutering makes little difference whether a behavior is changed. Only about 25 to 30 percent of the dogs we studied show a major change in behav- ior after neutering.”

An Individual Basis

In her veterinary practice, Hartung takes time to learn about the lifestyle and goals of pet owners. She estimates that among her clients with large breeds, about 75 percent of male dogs are neutered after 1 year of age and 50 percent of bitches after their first heat.

“I lean toward neutering dogs younger when I think there is risk of an accidental litter or if the temperament of the dog warrants it,” she says. “People who enjoy activities like going to dog parks don’t want to sit out during a bitch’s heat cycle. For these clients, I emphasize the important of practicing obesity prevention.

“I also urge owners to regularly do breast exams on bitches throughout life so mammary growths can be detected when they are tiny. In countries where most bitches are left unspayed, the sta- tistics are clear that intact bitches are at increased risk for mammary cancer.

The question is how does spaying at 12 months, which is very different from leaving a bitch intact throughout life, alter the risk?”

Hartung’s recommendation for people who compete in sports with their dogs is to wait until a dog is older. “There is quite a bit of orthopedic data and anecdotal information about the potential ill effect of early neutering

on performance dogs,” she says. “Agility is huge in our area. I advise people to wait.”

Hovan, too, supports waiting to spay bitches until after their first heat cycle and waiting to neuter males until they are between 12 and 24 months of age. After researching the topic, Hovan wrote a reference-supported article, titled “Deciding Whether and When to Neuter a Golden Retriever,” which she shares with puppy buyers and suggests that they share with their veterinarians.

“Most buyers are surprised when I point out the risks and benefits,” Hovan says. “I have a discussion with them in which I tie into my health guarantee the age of neutering, exercise recommen- dations and target weights.”

Hovan notes that while waiting past

6 months of age to spay or neuter a pet puppy may be contrary to recommen- dations by many pet welfare organiza- tions, it works best for her and her Faera Golden Retrievers sold to fami- lies as pets. “In my view, it comes down to the careful selection of puppy buyers, providing education and follow-up with owners to be sure they make the right decision for their Golden Retriever puppy and themselves,” she says.

More research is needed to docu- ment the health effects of early spaying and neutering, Hartung says. “The rea- son people get different recommenda- tions is because veterinarians try to weight their own experiences with incomplete and sometimes conflicting studies, anecdotes and the particular situations of their own clientele,” she says. “I welcome more hard data on this topic.”

 Used with permission from the Purina Pro Club Golden Retriever Update newsletter, Nestle Purina PetCare.

Purina appreciates the support of the Golden Retriever Club of Amer- ica and particularly Rhonda Hovan, the GRCA research facilitator, in helping to identify topics for the Purina Pro Club

Like children, puppies need a variety of positive experiences in order to become confident, well adjusted adults. As part of their upbringing, puppies should learn to get along with other dogs, children, and other people, and to accept the many strange sights, sounds, and experiences that are part of everyday life.) 

Keep new experiences upbeat and positive, and your dog will soon be a confident and happy companion.

Stages of Development: 

Puppies pass through several developmental phases. Initial "dog socialization" begins in the litter. At seven to eight weeks, puppies start to become more independent and ready to explore their environment. This is a very good age to bring your new puppy home. Around eight to ten weeks, your puppy will probably enter a fear period. During this period, you will notice that your puppy sticks close to you and is easily frightened. Avoid loud noises or surprises during this period, and keep new experiences very non-threatening. Once the fear period passes, at around ten weeks of age, your puppy will enter the juvenile phase. He will be more inquisitive and more eager in his explorations. This is a very good time to introduce new experiences! The juvenile period will last until your puppy becomes a young adult. Watch your puppy carefully, though; some pups go through a second fear period around their fourth or fifth month. 

When socializing your puppy, you must keep his health needs in mind. Until your dog's vaccinations are complete, he is at risk of catching Parvo, a widespread and deadly disease. You should be extremely careful not to put your puppy down in public places until his shots are complete. Consult your veterinarian for advice about what else may pose a health risk for your puppy. 

Getting Along With Other Dogs: 

Dogs have a language of their own. Using body posture, facial expressions, and vocalization, they communicate fear, anger, aggression, submission, playfulness, and more. A puppy who grows up among other dogs will learn canine language and be able to communicate effectively. A puppy raised in isolation may misinterpret cues from other dogs, or inadvertently send signals that may anger another animal. 

Also, like children, puppies need to learn appropriate social behavior. When puppies play, an overly enthusiastic nip results in a yelp from another puppy. Persistent jumping on "mom" may result in a growl or snap of rebuke. In these ways, puppies learn the limits of play behavior. 

A good way to give your puppy these important learning experiences is through "puppy socialization classes." Look under Dog Trainers in your phone book, or ask your local dog club or veterinarian for recommendations. You may also be able to get together with other new dog owners to form a puppy play group. 

During socialization, puppies should be allowed free play time. Puppies should be supervised to make sure puppy play doesn't become overly aggressive, especially if there's a big size difference among the dogs. 

Puppy socialization with other dogs begins in the litter, and should continue (if possible) throughout the puppy and juvenile growth stages. A well socialized puppy will probably mature into a dog who can be trusted to meet and play with other dogs. Note that socialization is even more important for dog-aggressive or dominant breeds. However, if you find your puppy becoming overly aggressive or overly afraid during play sessions, you should seek help from a professional dog trainer to make sure the behavior is corrected before it becomes a problem.

 Getting Along With Other Pets:

For many dogs, interaction with other types of pets can be much more of a problem than dealing with other dogs. This is especially true with small animals that run away (behavior which can trigger "prey instincts" in the dog). It's best to not take a chance on allowing dogs of any breed to play with small animals such as hamsters or rabbits. Although many dogs have learned to get along with such pets, is it really worth the risk? 

Cats and larger pets are usually less at risk. If you have these pets in your home, the puppy should be introduced to them at an early age. Supervise the animals when they are together, and use praise or treats to reward your puppy for good behavior. (Don't forget to make the experience pleasant for the other pet as well.) 

Dogs of many breeds, when raised with cats or other pets, learn to accept them. However, for some breeds with strong hunting instincts, there may always be a risk. It's safest to choose your dog breed carefully if you know you will have other animals in the house. 

 Getting Along With People:

Since dogs must live in a human world, it's important for them to deal well with people. Early, positive exposure to lots of strangers, with praise or rewards for good behavior, will help your puppy grow up to become a well-behaved dog. 

Invite friends to your home to meet and play with your puppy. Ask adults to crouch down and avoid sudden movements when meeting your puppy... from the pup's point of view, a human is HUGE. If you don't have young children of your own, invite friends' or neighbors' children. (Be sure to instruct children in how to handle the puppy, and always supervise play!) Puppies who are not raised around children can develop aggressive behavior toward children when they grow older. Small children, who tend to run around and make high-pitched squealing noises, can trigger prey instincts in dogs who are not used to them. Some breeds don't do well with children because of the strong prey instinct; other breeds are very good with children. If you have small children in your home, this is a very important factor to consider when choosing a dog. 

As soon as your puppy's shots are complete, begin taking him to public places such as parks, where he can meet lots of friendly people. Also, make a point of introducing your dog to people of different ages and races, people in uniforms, and so on; dogs may become very wary when confronted with people who seem "unusual" in any way. 

It's important to remember that you are teaching your puppy to be comfortable with people, and to behave himself around them. Behavior that seems cute in a puppy, such as nipping and jumping, is no longer cute when the dog is an eighty pound adult! Whatever you don't want your dog to do as an adult, he should not be allowed to do as a puppy. Teach the puppy the behavior you want, and discourage the behavior you don't want. Gently but firmly correct unwanted behavior right from the start, and you'll have a well-behaved adult dog. 

Your well-socialized dog can still be a good watchdog. Your dog is smart enough to distinguish between people who you welcome into your home, and people who should not be there. 

Dealing With New Experiences:

Everyday experiences can be very frightening for your new puppy. A pan dropped in the kitchen, a vacuum cleaner, or a ride in the car can become traumatic events that the dog will try to avoid forever after. 

To prevent this, introduce your dog to as many new experiences as you can think of. Use rewards and encouragement to make the experiences positive, so your dog doesn't develop fears. (Remember to keep new experiences very non-threatening, and avoid startling the puppy, during the fear period around eight to ten weeks.) 

For example, to accustom your puppy to a vacuum cleaner, first allow him to explore and sniff it without turning it on. Praise him or reward him as he explores. Then, when your puppy is a comfortable distance away, you may start up your vacuum cleaner, stand near it, and call your puppy. If he approaches, encourage him and praise him, or give him a reward. Gradually encourage the puppy to come closer to the vacuum. Repeat this experience several times, with lots of praise and rewards, and your puppy will soon have no fear of the vacuum. 

To get your puppy used to riding in a car, first get in the car with him and play with him, or give him a reward. On the next "outing," drive a few yards while someone holds your puppy and praises him. Work up to drives of a few minutes; keep them short so your puppy won't get sick. Afterwards, play with your puppy so he associates the car ride with a pleasant experience. 

Other experiences to work on with your puppy include getting into his crate or kennel, walking on a leash, walking on different surfaces (such as tile, carpet, gravel, sand, grass, and snow), climbing steps, and hearing the doorbell and telephone ring. 

You can use the same approach to accustom your puppy to experiences that might otherwise be ordeals for both of you! Try the reward approach when brushing your puppy, giving him a bath, and clipping his nails. You should also teach your puppy to let you handle his paws, his ears, his tail, and even open his mouth without a struggle. (Remember, start with very short sessions and use praise, play, or rewards to keep the experience fun.) This basic groundwork with your puppy will make life much easier when your vet needs to examine him! 

Keep new experiences upbeat and positive, and your dog will soon be a confident and happy companion. 

1. Keep accurate records of your dog's vaccination and titer history. 

2. Arm yourself with accurate, credibly sourced information when having a discussion with your veterinarian about vaccine protocols. 

3. Consider using antibody titer tests to accurately determine whether your dog needs to be re-vaccinated. 

4. Commit to taking your dog to your veterinarian for annual checkups; consider twice-annual visits for dogs seven years of age and older. 

Should you vaccinate your dog? Should your dog receive all the recommended vaccines at once? How important are common shots, like the DHPP vaccine, or rabies vaccine? Over-vaccinating dogs is a definite problem in the veterinary world, but immunizing your pet is nonetheless a necessary part of having one. 

You check your mailbox and there it is: a reminder postcard from your dog’s veterinarian. If you’re like many of us dog owners, you groan and toss the card aside. 

If you’ve not yet found an enlightened, up-to-date veterinarian, the postcard is likely to say, “It’s time for your dog’s annual vaccinations! Call us today for an appointment!” 

We hope, however, that you’ve done your homework and found a veterinary practice whose postcards say something more like, “It’s time for your dog’s wellness examination! Call us today for an appointment!” 

dog Over-Vaccination 

Educate yourself on canine vaccination practices using reputable sources so that you can have an intelligent conversation with your veterinarian on the pros and cons of vaccination for your dog; a good place to start are the AAHA Guidelines. 

What’s the difference? In 2003, the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) revised its vaccination guidelines, recommending that vets vaccinate adult dogs only every three years – not annually. Many enlightened veterinarians changed their canine healthcare protocols to reflect the guidelines, and now suggest annual wellness examinations with vaccinations only every three years. 

Vaccines for Dogs: The Basics 

Core vaccines protect animals from severe, life-threatening diseases that have global distribution. According to the AAHA, core vaccines that every dog should receive initially as a puppy (a series of three vaccines given between 8-16 weeks of age) are: 

1. canine distemper (CDV) 

2. canine parvovirus 2 (CPV-2) 

3. canine adenovirus 2 (CAV) 

The core vaccines should be administered one year later, and every three years thereafter, unless antibody titer test results indicate that the dog possesses antibody levels that have been determined to be protective. 

The rabies vaccine is also considered a core vaccine, but should be given once at age 12 to 16 weeks (or as late as local law allows), then again one year later, followed by every three years. (Unfortunately, some locales require rabies vaccination more frequently than every three years, so check your local laws.) 

Non-core vaccinations should be administered only to dogs whose geographical location, local environment, or lifestyle place them at risk of contracting each of the specific infections. These vaccines are: 

- Bordetella bronchiseptica (kennel cough) & parainfluenza 

- Borrelia burgdorferi (Lyme) 

- Leptospirosis

- Giardia

- Coronavirus 

Note: The above recommendations are per the AAHA. Dr. Dodds advocates administration of the initial rabies vaccine after 20 weeks of age (if allowable by local law). 

Be Prepared with Your Dog's Vaccination History 

That said, don’t think for a minute that you need to take your dog to the vet only every three years. It’s imperative that you take your canine companions in for yearly checkups. Rather than throw that postcard in the trash, pick up the phone and call for an appointment. Yearly wellness examinations help our veterinarians develop a good baseline on our dog’s health, be better able to take notice of subtle changes in his health over time, and develop a relationship with our dog and us. 

While these annual trips to the vet might now be called “wellness checks” rather than “vaccine visits,” the odds are good that the topic of vaccines will come up. And despite our good intentions, many of us head in with our dog for his annual exam and feel blindsided as the vet suggests an array of vaccines for our dogs. Often, we nod in agreement, get that “deer in the headlights” look and agree with her recommendations (she is the expert after all), then go home with regrets. 

Remember the Scout motto and “Be prepared” as you get ready for your dog’s next veterinary appointment. Being prepared means more than remembering to take your dog’s leash, collar with ID, treats, and showing up on time, on the right day, with the right dog. 

How to best prepare for your dog’s annual veterinary visit and be ready for a discussion on the most appropriate vaccine strategy for him? 

◾Bring veterinary records and/or a list with you of your dog’s vaccination history; do not assume the veterinary clinic will have all the most recent information, especially if you’ve changed clinics. Other test dates and results to bring include most recent heartworm test, antibody titer test results, and blood and/or urinalysis test results. Ideally, you’ll collect all the data ahead of time and enter into a table so that you have a timeline of the pet’s life. 

Often its best to have a health record with dates of every vaccine, deworming, flee/tick treatment, and any other treatments available at a glance... See the link for Health record

◾Have a clear idea in your mind whether you want/need your dog to receive any vaccinations (and for which diseases), an antibody titer test, or none of the above. If you are unsure, cultivate a good understanding of the vaccines available. And ask your veterinarian if any particular vaccines are warranted due to conditions in the area in which you live. 

◾Educate yourself using reputable sources so that you can have an intelligent conversation with your veterinarian on the pros and cons of vaccination for your dog; a good place to start are the AAHA Guidelines. Writings and research by Ronald Schultz, PhD, DACVIM, and Jean Dodds, DVM, are also excellent references. 

◾Know the status of your dog’s health, and whether he has any health or behavioral issues that your veterinarian should be aware of. 

◾Bring a list of your dog’s current medications and supplements, including dose, strength, and frequency. 

◾Have an idea of what the visit will cost, including any tests, to avoid sticker shock or making hasty (bad) decisions based solely on price. Call ahead. 

◾Be prepared to take your dog and go home if you are uncomfortable with your veterinarian’s recommendations. There’s no need to get nasty or defensive. We suggest something along the lines of, “I’m not sure I’m comfortable with those recommendations. I’d like to go home and think about them.” 

If you are going to see a veterinarian who is new to you and your dog, consider making an appointment with the veterinarian, without your dog, to discuss her philosophy toward vaccinations and antibody titer tests. 

your veterinarian suggesting that your dog is "due" for certain vaccines does NOT mean your dog must have those vaccines! 

How Antibody Titer Tests May Affect Your Decisions 

Antigens are any substance that the immune system identifies as an invader and responds to by producing a chemical defense: antibodies. When everything is working as it should, your dog’s immune system will recognize disease antigens that were introduced to his system via a vaccine (weakened or killed) or by natural exposure to the antigen that causes the disease (viral or bacterial). 

A “titer” is a measurement of how much antibody to a certain antigen is circulating in the blood at that moment. The result is usually expressed in a ratio. A positive titer test result is strongly correlated with a good antibody response to either a recent infection or vaccination. A dog who has received “core” vaccines and who displays a positive antibody titer test result should be considered protected from the diseases for which he was vaccinated (meaning, he doesn’t need vaccines at that time). See "Vaccine Titer Tests," for more insight. 

Your dog must undergo a blood draw in order to have an antibody titer test. Labs such as Antech, IDEXX, and most veterinary college laboratories offer these tests. Antibody titer testing is typically run for parvovirus and distemper, since the dog’s antibody response to these two antigens is highly predictive as to the dog’s immunologic competence in dealing with any other antigen to which he has been exposed. 

Rarely, there are exceptions. When an antibody titer test is negative, the owner and veterinarian should consider revaccinating and then testing the titers again. It may turn out that the animal simply needed another exposure to the antigen in order to stimulate a stronger immune response. Or, it may develop that the dog lacks the ability to respond normally to vaccines, that is, by mounting a proper immune response. In this case, the owner and veterinarian have gained very valuable information about the dog’s compromised immune status – information they never would have gained by simply vaccinating and assuming the dog was “protected,” as is usually the case with healthy dogs. 

If You Choose to Vaccinate Your Dog 

If you determine that your dog is in need of vaccination, consider the following: 

◾Ask the veterinarian to perform the health exam and other tests first; you might even wait to vaccinate until those results are in, and schedule a follow-up vaccine visit once you know your dog is in the clear, health-wise. 

◾At a minimum, try to schedule the rabies vaccine for a different visit than the other vaccines, if your dog needs them. The rabies vaccine should be administered by itself at a later date, apart from the other three “core” vaccines (distemper, parvo-virus, and adenovirus), and in another part of the dog’s body. 

If you’re considering vaccinating simply for financial reasons (because vaccines cost less than running a titer test) a well-planned vaccine/titer strategy might have you coming out ahead in the long run if you scale back on vaccines and run titers on a strategically planned schedule. 

Veterinary medicine today has advanced to the point of acknowledging that there is no single “perfect” vaccine program; vaccine programs must be tailored to the specific needs of each animal. Although there is a tendency to want to treat all dogs the same, the program should be designed for the individual, not the masses. The dog’s health, age, environment, activities, lifestyle, and whether he has previously had any adverse vaccine reactions all need to figure in to the equation. 

It’s Up to You to Make Vaccination Decisions 

Don’t expect your veterinarian to ask you broadly what you want to do when you take your dog in for an annual exam. Most veterinarians, unless prompted by the client, will assume that you’re there for “the usual” and will go ahead and recommend annual vaccinations. It is up to you to educate yourself and advocate for your dog and know what vaccines and tests might benefit him, and to know the laws concerning how frequently the rabies vaccine must be administered. 

Lisa Rodier is a frequent contributor to WDJ. She lives in Alpharetta, Georgia, with her husband and two Bouviers, and volunteers with the American Bouvier Rescue League. 

For most of us who share our lives with dogs, making sure they are vaccinated tops the list of preventive-care tasks. We mindfully take our puppies or newly adopted dogs for their recommended vaccines. We routinely return to our veterinarian or vaccine clinic when that postcard or email arrives, reminding us that our dogs are due for booster shots. We know vaccination offers critical protection from diseases such as canine parvovirus, canine distemper virus, rabies and more. 

However, many of us question the concept of “routine” when it comes to vaccinations. While grateful for the protection that vaccines offer, we are increasingly aware of their possible unintended consequences. After all, people are not continuing to be re vaccinated as adults for every disease. That’s where titer testing comes in. 

Titer tests are among the tools that dog owners and veterinarians can use to help minimize the risks of both infectious diseases and unnecessary vaccinations. Simply put, these tests can tell you if a previous vaccine is still protecting your dog. If it’s still working, you don’t have to revaccinate. 

Dr. Evelyn Sharp a Vet in Santa Cruz, Calif., has used titer tests with her own dogs since she began practicing veterinary medicine in the mid-1990s. The first dog she regularly tested was her Border Collie mix, Ace. Titers showed that the protection provided by Ace’s initial puppy series and one-year booster lasted the rest of his life. With the recent availability of in-practice titer-test kits—VacciCheck from Biogal Laboratories and TiterCHEK from Synbiotics Corporation—titer testing has become even easier to do. 

Because the newer titer-test kits are affordable, accurate and can be run inhouse (rather than by a lab), Dr. Sharp now suggests titer testing as part of preventive care. With the information she gets from the titers, she can provide a customized vaccination protocol for each dog, keeping the dog well protected while minimizing the risks of over-vaccination. 

The most recent American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) Canine Vaccination Guidelines say that reported side effects from vaccines vary from injection-site reactions, lethargy, lack of appetite and fever to more serious adverse events, including allergic reactions, autoimmune problems and, rarely, sarcoma or other tumors. The decision about when to vaccinate requires a risk/benefit analysis. Most experts agree that vaccines are critical to the overall health and wellness of our dogs (and cats), but many also agree that giving a vaccine when it is not needed exposes animals to unnecessary hazards. 

So what exactly is involved in titer testing? A “titer” is a method of measuring antibodies in a blood sample for specific diseases. Your vet will draw a small amount of blood and then run that blood through the test. Titers are usually expressed as a ratio; if the titer number is high, it means that your dog has enough antibodies to fight off that specific disease and is considered to have immunity from infection. For many of our dogs, that immunity is the result of a previous vaccine. However, immunity can also develop because a dog had the disease in the past. Either way, a high titer means your dog is protected. 

If the test shows a low titer, your dog may not have immunity. The interesting and perhaps odd detail (odd, at least, from a layperson’s viewpoint) is that a low titer is not completely definitive. A dog may still have some protection. Still, the accepted standard with the in-house test kit is that a low titer means that you and your veterinarian should discuss revaccinating. 

Just as vaccine prices vary, the price of a titer test can also vary from veterinary practice to veterinary practice. According to Dr. Sharp, the VacciCheck tests three diseases—parvovirus, distemper and adenovirus (canine hepatitis)— and generally runs between $45 and $80, which is a little more than most vaccines, but not unreasonably high. 

AAHA vaccine guidelines say that titer testing is an appropriate way to check for immunity to parvovirus, distemper and adenovirus. However, it is not recommended for canine leptospirosis, bordetella or Lyme disease, because these vaccines only provide short-term protection. 

Rabies vaccines do provide long-term protection, and the titer tests for rabies are also considered to be a very accurate measure of immunity. However, vaccination against rabies is mandated by law and at this time, no state in the U.S. accepts titer-test results in lieu of vaccination history. If your dog bites someone, she will still need to be quarantined, even if a titer test shows she has immunity. Specific types of rabies titer tests are used, however, when moving to rabies-free countries or regions—for example, Hawaii, Guam, Japan, New Zealand or Great Britain. In this case, the rabies titer test will help qualify a dog for a shorter quarantine. 

Along with using titer tests to check for immunity to parvovirus, distemper and adenovirus in a previously vaccinated adult dog, titers are also a good option for a newly adopted dog whose vaccination or health history you may not know. In addition, a titer test may be used to make sure young puppies have responded to the initial vaccine series and are fully protected. If a pup did not respond, the vaccine may have been compromised, the mother’s immunity may still be active or the pup may be a non-responder (meaning she will not have an immune reaction to vaccines). Your veterinarian can help you decide on the best course of action if your pup does not have an acceptable titer. 

While vaccinating animals against infectious diseases is critical to protecting individual dogs and communities at large, over-vaccinating is also a real concern for those of us who share our lives with dogs. Titer tests give us another tool and can help when it comes time to discuss vaccines with our veterinarian and make the best health-care decisions for our dogs. 

Dealing with Pet Allergies

Food Allergies 

By Jean Hofve, DVM

A Brief Introduction to Allergies 

An allergy is an immune system reaction to a specific molecule, which is called an allergen. Most allergens are proteins, but practically anything can become an allergen in any particular animal. In dogs and cats, the most common allergy is to flea bites; followed by "atopy" an allergy to inhaled particles such as pollen, mold, and dust mites. 

The medical name for an allergy is a "hypersensitivity reaction." There are four types of hypersensitivity reactions, but most of the allergies our pets are prone to are Type I or "immediate" hypersensitivity. This reaction takes place quickly; usually within minutes, but up to about 12 hours after exposure. An allergy to bee stings or flea bites are classic examples, but food allergies and atopy also fall into this category. Some allergies are very severe and can be life-threatening, though this is rare in pets. 

The symptoms of allergies in pets usually appear in either the digestive system (vomiting and/or diarrhea) or the skin (itchiness, redness, lesions, hair loss, ear infections). It can be very difficult to distinguish atopy from food allergies, and some pets have both. 

In this article, we'll focus on food allergies; next time, we'll take on atopy (allergy to inhaled substances). 

Food Allergy Symptoms 

Experts believe that between 10% and 30% of all allergies are to food. Food allergies are much less common than food intolerances. An allergy involves the immune system, while a food intolerance is a simple reaction to a food's ingredients often one or more of the colorings, texturizers, or 25 other categories of allowed pet food additives. Because they involve antibodies and immune-based inflammation, true food allergies are very different from dietary intolerances. However, the symptoms are often the same: vomiting and/or diarrhea. These symptoms may be chronic or intermittent. However, the other major symptoms of food allergy that don't usually occur with food intolerance are skin symptoms: itching, redness, rashes, hair loss, and ear infections. Just to complicate things, these symptoms can also occur with allergies that don't involve food, such as flea bites and pollen, as well as non-allergic conditions. 

Skin symptoms of allergy (referred to as "allergic dermatitis") are frequently complicated and aggravated by secondary infections by yeast or bacteria. Additionally, these symptoms may not be related to food or allergies at all; there are many potential causes of digestive and skin issues. If your pet is having problems, please have your veterinarian take a look. 

Differences Between Dogs and Cats 

Cats are more apt to have food allergies than dogs. Some dermatologists believe that up to 50% of ear infections in cats are due to food allergies, but only 15% of similar infections in dogs. 

Allergies typically develop over time and after multiple exposures to the allergen, although they are occasionally seen in young puppies and kittens, or after only one or two exposures. It's common to think that if a pet has been eating the same food for years, symptoms couldn't be due to allergies. But just the opposite is true: eating the same food over a long period of time is a recipe for allergy development. Not surprisingly, then, the most commonly used pet food ingredients are the ones pets most commonly become allergic to. For instance, meat by-products, liver, and meat-and-bone meal come largely from cattle, so allergies to beef are common. 

Pets Most Common Food Allergens 

Beef, chicken, milk, eggs, corn, wheat and soy 

Pets Most Common Food Allergens Dogs Beef, chicken, milk, eggs, corn, wheat, and soy Cats Fish, beef, milk and milk products Some animals have cross-reacting allergies; that is, if they are allergic to chicken, they are also allergic to turkey, eggs, and other birds; a beef-allergic pet may also react to other cloven-hoofed animals such as bison, venison, or lamb. Pets who have an allergy to one thing are prone to developing more allergies. 

Comedian Chris Rock was once talking about friends whose child had food allergies, and asked, "How can anyone be allergic to food?" And that's a good question! All animals must eat to live, so it doesn't exactly make biological sense that the body would reject good nutrition, or react so badly to it. 

One way that an ingredient can become an allergen is the heat processing that pet food undergoes during manufacturing. Heat can "denature" proteins, which means that it distorts their shape. Shape is how the immune system tells proteins that belong in the body apart from foreign proteins. When an abnormal protein is picked up by an immune cell, the whole system responds, and antibodies are produced. After that, every time that protein appears, antibodies flock to it and stimulate inflammation. The more damaged proteins, the more inflammation. When the offending allergen is in the pet's everyday diet, the situation can become quite severe and uncomfortable for your companion. 

The very fact that this reaction takes place at the lining of the gut causes changes in the lining itself. Swelling and inflammation cause the normally tight barrier of gut lining cells to become "leaky." This "leaky gut" will absorb more things it shouldn't, causing the reaction to move into the bloodstream, where it can cause inflammation elsewhere, notably the skin. 

How Diet Changes and Supplements Can Help a Pet With Allergies 

Fortunately, both food allergies and food intolerances respond to dietary therapy. This may be as simple as changing brands, since each manufacturer uses its own proprietary formulas and ingredients. Many food intolerances will disappear with any new food. 

Allergies are harder to deal with, but the treatment for food allergies also happens to be one of the simplest ways to diagnose them. Changing your pet's diet to a "novel ingredient" diet, also sometimes called a "hypo-allergenic" diet, allows the immune system to settle down and the inflammation to resolve. The new diet should contain protein and carbohydrate sources that the animal has not had before. Here's how to do a diet trial for food allergies: 

Choose a food that does not contain the same ingredients that were in the food your pet was eating when the allergy began. There are several ways to go: 

Often, it's best to start with a very simple home-cooked diet, such as plain turkey and white rice. For the short period of a food trial, it's usually safe to skip supplements; a deficiency is unlikely to occur that quickly. However, work with your veterinarian to make sure your pet's unique nutritional needs are met during this time. 

Use one of the many ready-made commercial pet foods that can be used for a novel ingredient diet. Choose an unusual protein such as rabbit, bison, and duck, with a carbohydrates like sweet potatoes, brown rice, and green peas. There are veterinary diets for this purpose, but their ingredients tend to be poorer quality than a good natural food brand. 

Change food forms, i.e., from dry to canned. There have been cases where an animal who reacts to a dry food does fine with the same brand's canned version. Canned foods are processed at lower temperatures, and may be less allergenic. 

Consider a raw diet. As with dry and canned foods, sometimes animals who are allergic to an ingredient in a processed pet food will readily tolerate the same ingredient in its raw form. However, in pets with leaky gut syndrome, the natural bacteria in raw meat may be a risk. You can lightly cook the food for a while until the gut has healed. 

In most cases, it's best to switch diets gradually over a week or two. Cats are notoriously finicky, and it may take even longer for them. If your pet is willing to eat the new food right away, you can make the change faster, but be aware that digestive symptoms could get worse at first, because the gut has not had time to adjust. 

Feed exclusively the new food for at least 8 weeks. No cheating or table scraps, no treats. Giving anything but the new diet will put you back to square one, and you'll have to start the 8 weeks all over again. 

When the symptoms are all gut-related (vomiting, diarrhea), improvement may be quite fast. 

Skin symptoms may take up to 12 weeks to resolve, but there should be at least noticeable improvement within about 8 weeks. 

If the symptoms arenâ't changing at all, you may need to switch to a different diet. Remember that allergies can cross-react, and that your pet may be allergic to more than one ingredient. 

There are also several supplements that can be very helpful for allergies. These can be 

Digestive Enzymes help break food down into smaller particles, which will be less reactive in the gut. They also help "clean up" areas of inflammation. 

Probiotics are "friendly bacteria" that are important for gut function and health of the cells that line the digestive tract. They also have some anti-inflammatory properties. 

Omega-3 Fatty Acids (fish oil, cod liver oil). These essential fats are strong anti-inflammatories, and are also important for skin health. It's an interesting phenomenon that even pets who aren't food allergic, often respond to a diet trial. The problem may actually be atopy, asthma, or any number of other inflammatory conditions. Simplifying the diet reduces the total number of allergens a pet is exposed, and that seems to help many non-allergic conditions, as well as allergies other than food. 

Remember that allergic pets tend to develop more allergies including to new foods. Lamb and rice was once a popular combination for allergic pets, but after eating it over a long period of time, many pets became allergic to lamb, too. If your pet is prone to developing allergies, it's wise to switch foods (to different protein and carbohydrate sources) every 3 or 4 months to prevent future problems. 

Other Resources for Pet Allergies 

Pet Allergies:Remedies for an Epidemic by Alfred Plechner,D.V.M. and Martin Zucker 

Nambudripad's Allergy Elimination Techniques (NAET) is an allergy-elimination system created by Devi S. Nambudripad, a medical doctor from Buena Park, California, who is also an acupuncturist, chiropractor and kinesiologist. For more information go to www.vetnaet.com 

By Ashley Gallagher, DVM 

Choosing what to feed your dog can be an overwhelming decision. Pet food stores are packed with row after row of different brands of food all containing clever marketing slogans to convince you they are the best for your dog. Many of these dog foods boast about containing extremely high levels of protein that claim to satisfy your dog’s instinctual need for meat as well as make them healthier and live longer. 

Are Dogs Carnivores? 

Marketing tactics by some pet food companies have fueled a common misconception among pet owners that dogs are obligate carnivores and require a diet that consists mostly of meat. This is not true. Dogs, like people, are omnivores and do best with a balanced diet of protein, carbohydrates, and fat. Excessive protein consumption is unnecessary for dogs at best and for some dogs with medical conditions can actually be harmful. 

Proteins are the building blocks of the body and an absolute necessity for daily function. However, when a dog consumes too much protein in a meal it cannot all be utilized at one time, nor can it be stored for later. The body will then excrete the excess protein through the kidneys and out of the body via urine. Thus the quality of the protein actually becomes more important that than actual amount as a high quality protein is more bioavailable and can be better absorbed by the body. 

Another issue is that the meat in these diets acting as the protein source contains other nutrients that you do not want in excessive amounts. For example, when a diet is mostly meat it becomes very difficult to maintain a proper calcium-phosphorus ratio. When this ratio is out of balance disruptions in bone growth or kidney damage can occur. Well formulated dog foods have an appropriate balance of protein, fat, and carbohydrates to prevent this from happening. 

Is Excessive Protein in Dog Food Bad for My Pet? 

Protein is a calorie dense nutrient and many of the high protein diets are extremely high in calories and can quickly lead to weight gain. With over 50% of dogs in the U.S. considered overweight or obese, dog owners need to be aware of where those extra calories are hiding. If a dog has kidney or liver issues consuming too much protein can increase the workload on these organs and upset the balance of nutrients leading to exacerbation of disease. 

Rather than look for a dog food that contains excessive levels of protein you should find one that is specifically formulated for your dog’s lifestyle, life stage, and size. A working sled dog, for example, will have significantly different nutrient and caloric requirements than the average pet dog that ventures outside for a few walks a day and spends the rest of the time lounging. These two dogs should not be fed the same diet. 

Puppies, meanwhile, require more protein than adult dogs because their bodies are busy growing. Among breeds of puppies there are different requirements for nutrients as well. For instance large breed puppies like Labrador retrievers need a much different diet than a Yorkie for optimal growth. Feeding large breed puppies something that is too high in protein may make them put on weight too quickly causing abnormal joint development and making them more prone to issues like arthritis in the future. 

The safest diets are those that have been developed by pet food companies that invest in scientific research, consult with veterinary nutritionists, and perform feeding trials to develop their diets. This will provide a pet food that is properly balanced without any excess nutrients that are unnecessary and in some cases harmful for your dog.

Like your teeth, a dog’s teeth need daily care to remain healthy and strong. One way to prevent your dog from getting tooth decay or oral disease is to brush his teeth daily with a toothpaste and toothbrush designed espe-

cially for dogs. Also feed him specially formulated foods proven to reduce plaque and tartar buildup.

Many dogs as young as age 3

may already show some form

of oral disease. If left un-

treated, bacteria from the teeth

and gums can cause serious health

problems. Visit your veterinarian regularly, especially if you see signs of pos- sible oral disease, such as bad breath, yellow-brown crust around the gum line, pawing at the mouth, change of chewing or eating habits, subdued behavior, excessive dribbling, bleeding gums, pain when eating or tooth loss.

PREVENTION IS THE BEST MEDICINE!